That Girl! KAL: Decisions, decisions! + Sizing Q&A
Summer Jacket KAL” /></a>
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I am wondering if anyone has made this in a size a bit bigger than provided in the pattern, and if so, the suggested increases? I’d put an extra stitch on each sleeve, 2 on each front panel, and 4 in the back.
A: It’s knit to size, so you’ll make the changes automatically. For 4 extra inches, add an extra 20 st and put 4 on each front panel, 2 on each sleeve, and 8 in the back. I’m down to the torso. I thought other people might be interested, so I’m including the question and my answer, plus some extra info on sizing in the other direction.
Q: I am not quite a medium anymore (!), but a large.
Whether you’re going up or down in sizes, you can check our size before you get going. The wide neckline (~21 inches) is suitable for a wide range of sizes, and you’ll just keep going with the raglan increases until the sweater reaches below your armpits. You’ll also want to start the puffs 1/2 inch sooner, and CO either 2 or 4 stitches over the armpits instead of the regular 6.
For 4 fewer inches of collar, drop an extra 20 st and take 4 off each front panel, 2 off each sleeve, and 8 off the back. See directions on downloading PDFs.)
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We got a great question about larger sizing on the flickr group from 2girlsnaboy.
If you want to add a bit of extra ease beyond that, you can also cast on more stitches over the armpits–this will give you some more fabric in the body and more fabric in the arms. So for 2 fewer inches of neckline, subtract 10 extra stitches. After working a couple rows of collar, drape it around your neck to approximate the jacket’s neckline. Summer Jacket KAL”>
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For an XL or 2XL, if you want the neckline to be a bit wider from the start, you can cast on an extra stitches from the beginning, then divide them among the sections.
Nikol here. I’m using a My Paper Crane sad toast pinback button.
I’ve been using the waste yarn holding the sleeve stitches to manipulate the shape of the sleeves and play with different options. I still have another ball to knit on the torso before I have to commit to a sleeve, but I have no idea which way I want to go. If the size looks good, proceed.
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(Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. 5 extra stitches will give you a little over an inch of extra fabric.
For a L, I’d stick with the pattern as written. Use the larger sizes as a guideline, but work backwards.
Tip: If you haven’t picked out a button yet, you can use a mini pinback button as a placeholder so you can still try on you WIP. If you’re bigger, this will be farther along, which will result in more increases overall, and thus more stitches overall. For 2 extra inches, figure about 10 extra stitches.
On the other hand, if you wish to make a smaller model, cut back on your intital CO stitches, and everything will fall into place. Top-down raglans are conveniently auto-sizing, so as long as you start with the neckline you want and divvy up the stiches with the same percentages, you’ll be able to generate any size you want.
For a very small frame or a child’s size, you’d cast on fewer stitches. Having problems? When you place the markers, take an extra stitch off each sleeve, 2 off each front panel, and 4 off the back, and CO 4 stitches over the armpits instead of 6.
Original post by Nikol Lohr
